How To Repair A Gibson Snow Blower

Servicing Procedures

The Gilson Snowblower Shop
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General servicing of a vintage Gilson

Freeing a stiff or seized shifter of a 3 or 4 speed UniTrol

Adjusting the shifter of a three speed UniTrol

Replacing belts in a 3 or 4 speed UniTrol

Replacing the friction bicycle in a three or iv speed UniTrol

Replacing the Impeller or Impeller Bearing in a 3 or four speed UniTrol

Replacing belts in a 1, two or 3 speed Gear Bulldoze

Replacing a Gear Drive Impeller or Impeller Begetting

Replacing the recoil rope on your engine

Adjusting your carburetor

This folio is written equally a guide to servicing the most common families of vintage Gilson Snowblowers. It relates all-time to the following machines:

1st generation gear drive machines, these were produced between at least 1966 through 1971. These machines are characterized by a cast atomic number 26 chute base and a 26 inch width. The lesser of the transmission area is open up on these machines and at that place will be 2 or 3 roller chains depending on the exact model. They accept forrard and reverse and may have a high and depression range selector for the ground speed. Horsepower ranges from 5 to 8
2nd Generation gear drive machines, these were produced starting in 1972 and into the early on 1980s. These machines are either 28 or 32 inches in width. Horsepower is either 8 or 10. The bottom of the transmission expanse is open on these machines and the will be 2 roller bondage and a sealed 3 speed gear drive manual.
1st Generation 3 speed UniTrol, these machines were produced from 1971 through the early 1980s. These machines were almost e'er 26 inches in width and horsepower ranged from 5 to 10. The transmission expanse will have a plate that covers the bottom and at that place will be a large concave depression in the lower back console.

These machines cover that vast bulk of units in the field and are the styles I'1000 most fond of. A lot of what should be done is the same for all of the models and I will point out the differences where they exist. For machines not in these families and those of other makes altogether much of the following material is still applicative. In time I'd similar to illustrate this with many pictures but for now I volition concentrate on the text. This section reflects what I practise to a vintage car when bringing information technology up to snuff as a working slice in my collection. It does not reflect work that must be done each and every yr although a full inspection and some things should be done yearly. In many cases these bullet items will brainstorm and end every bit inspection tasks. Finally I must point out that Gilson built many variations of these machines and you may have a unit that differs from those that I know. Utilize your common sense, if what I say doesn't make sense and then don't practice information technology!

Full general Service Process (Melody-up)

When I service or rejuvenate a machine I sometimes skip effectually depending on what I feel like doing and where the risks are. For this presentation I'm going to get-go at the front and work my way back. This is also the triage procdure I apply when evaluating a newly caused machine. It'due south a great "getting to know y'all" exercise if you lot are new to your Gilson.

Starting at the front....
With the machine withal sitting flat on the floor remove the plug from the FRONT of the auger gear example. It should exist filled up to this plug with 30W Non-Detergent oil. If you don't encounter oil weep from the pigsty either squirt some in until information technology flows back out or remove the vent plug at the top and pour some in.
Check your shear pins they should exist v/xvi bore and of mild steel. If substitutes have been made from hex head bolts make certain in that location are no hash marks on the caput, they indicate a higher course bolt the will not protect your machine. It's not a bad idea to remove the bolts to make sure they are not partially sheared.
While the shear pins are out piece of work some oil into the space betwixt the auger assemblies and the shaft. Keeping this area gratuitous from rust tin be very helpful if y'all always need to tear the unit of measurement down.
There is a grease fitting on each end of the auger shaft, grease them with a grease gun until yous see a bit of grease moving out.
Cheque the drift billow on your machine. Practise you fifty-fifty have one? It serves two purposes. The outset is that it lets yous twitch drifts so they fall down where your blower tin collect and throw them. The more of import purpose for this topic is that information technology also acts as a boot stand, letting yous stand the machine up on information technology's nose. Is yours in skillful shape? If it's desperately bent you will need some good wood blocks for the superlative of your bucket to rest on when you tip it up, 4X4's often do well. Get some blocks that will let you stand up the machine upwardly if your migrate billow is not up to it.
CAUTION: If you have an early gear bulldoze with the straight vertical front border on your bucket it will want to roll frontward on the auger leads when you stand the machine upward, only do it briskly and you'll exist OK.
NOTE: When standing the car up yous desire less than 1/3 of a tank of gasoline.
Speaking of the drift breaker make certain that the mounting bolts are installed with the basics on the exterior.
Tip the car backward past tipping the bucket up and prop information technology with a gallon paint can or equivalent.
Get a flashlight and inspect the welds where the side panels of the saucepan join with the dorsum/bottom panel, especially the final welds near the scrapper bar. If the machine has been scrapping hard these may exist broken and demand to be re-welded. A MIG welder is overnice merely an AC stick welder with ane/xvi rod can do the job.
Now, look at the scrapper bar. How does it friction match upward with the lip of the saucepan? Is there dirt, rocks, debris etc wedged betwixt the parts? If so it must come autonomously. The low profile railroad vehicle bolts probably won't come up apart. A good cold chisel and striking hammer used between the nuts and scrapper bar will get it off in a hurry. Tip the car up for this task. Using hammers, pliers and a large adjustable wrench you tin can reform the bucket's lip and then it presses tightly against the scraper bar when you re-install it. I like to take the final 1/4 inch and requite it a picayune extra down bend all the way beyond. This volition force it against the scraper bar when you bolt it back on.
The scraper bar should be directly and not be grossly nicked. Reinstall information technology so it is as direct across equally possible. If yous accept a grinder don't hesitate to sharpen it a fleck. Information technology's amazing how much amend the machine will push button through packed snowfall when this border is in expert shape.
Skip to your tires for a moment and if they are pneumatic check the pressures are equal and between 12-15 PSI.
The next thing to do is adjust the skids. I like to set them for 1/2 inch clearance using a few scraps of i/2 inch plywood. With the automobile still upwards on the bucket loosen the nuts of the skid bolts and drop the skids. Now place the auto down with the scrapper bar resting on pieces of ane/2 inch plywood (or other spacers of your choice). Hold the slip to the floor while you tighten the bolts. The nuts should ALWAYS be on the outside. If your skids are worn through then exercise something virtually it or you will cause harm. Supplant, repair or fabricate as needed simply don't run the automobile dead on the scrapper bar.
Look in through the front and inspect the impeller. The tips of the blades should point ahead in the direction of rotation and so they can help cup and throw the snow. If they are bending backwards they can be helped dorsum into shape with a big adjustable wrench or a large pair of pump (Aqueduct Lock) pliers. This may be a sign that a new impeller is in your hereafter of information technology could last you many more years.
This finishes up what I expect forrard inside the bucket area.
Now the chute section.....
The virtually common pattern for the chute is a stamped steel fine tooth gear driven by a worm gear. The earliest UniTrols used a sprocket affair to bulldoze a matching plate and the early gear bulldoze machines have a cast iron base of operations driven with a pinion.
On the fine molar gear models bank check the 3 concord downward plates for tightness. Generally they were riveted though for a brief period pop-rivets were tried. After years of hard service the rivets tin loosen. If they exercise I drill them out for #10 bolts and re-bolt the three plates. Make sure everything is flat and deburred before reassembling. Service removable thread locker (Loctite) or lock nuts are skilful ideas here.
On the gear drives with the bandage iron chute base there a re iii contumely rollers on the 3 bolts you can run into from the exterior. Remove the bolts and catch the rollers. If they are still round merely clean them upward oil them and reinstall. If they had been bound up and got flats worn into them you will desire to supervene upon them.
To whatever extent you take the chute apart make it a point to clean all surfaces.
When reinstalling the chute grease the top and bottom of the ring it runs on. If you practice non take to accept it off run an oil tin can around the within and drizzle some oil down into the gap
Coat the gear, whatever way with grease
Requite a drib of oil to every moving contact signal in the chute control linkage.
NOTE: If the ring that your chute rides on is found to be cracked you may get it welded. If it cleaved or if you wish to replace a cracked ring it is available as a service office for both the fine tooth base (700570) and the cast atomic number 26 base (704164) styles. With a small disc grinder and a welder the machine can be saved. Run into your local LawnBoy dealer for these parts. If y'all have your model number have these numbers confirmed. They will non show upwards on some early parts breakdowns since they did non become bachelor until latter in the product life cycle.
Finally remove excessive rust from the inside of the chute and spray with a silicone lubricating spray or a polish like Pledge.
Under the belt cover....
Let's start with idler rollers. There are ii rollers used to apply tension to your belts. Until the late 1970's these were solid steel rollers with an oil impregnated statuary liner bushing. Retaining ring pliers are needed to service these. They should be opened up and cleaned and repacked with a good bearing grease every year or 2 depending on the level of use. A very safe recommendation would be to do this every 10 hours. Later on machines use stamped steel rollers with sealed bearings that require no regular attending, they are mounted to a stud with a nut
On the gear drive models one or two of the idler arms are mounted on bronze bushings that ride on a stationary shaft. When these bushings and the shaft become worn it becomes impossible to keep the idlers tracking correctly on the belt. If these arms are very floppy or if you keep finding the blower idler under the chugalug when yous piece of work it difficult this area needs to be rebuilt. generic bushings and common steel shafting are all yous need.
Depending on your specific motorcar you will have several wire and of apartment iron belt retainers. These should exist ready to have between 1/16 - one/viii inch of clearance when the belts are engaged. These can be constitute mounted to the engine near the engine pulley and downwardly beneath where the chugalug reaches the large blower caster. If they are set too loose the belt may bomb off of the caster when disengaged making for an interruption to your snow immigration projection.
When you have the engine prepare to run you want to observe the idlers running on the belts. They should be adequately well centered on the belt and the belt should be running in a directly line betwixt the pulleys. If things are in good shape then the idler may need a small-scale alignment. A big adjustable wrench may be used to hold the arm so you tin can give it a slight twist to correct the belt tracking.
This is a proficient fourth dimension to get a good look at your belts. The top surface should have few if any blemishes or scars. The bottom side should take no tears or missing chunks. Exist certain to check the full length. Sometimes a frozen automobile can exist started and since nothing can move the engine pulley will burn the belt in a unmarried location. This is hands avoided with proper cleanup prior to storage between storms.
Audit whatsoever spring ends for wearable in the spot where they make contact. Replace as needed and utilise a driblet of oil to all contact points to reduce friction
Apply a drib of oil to every moving contact point you tin can detect in this area.
Now you desire to get the machine tipped up on it'south nose every bit mentioned earlier
On UniTrol machine there is a grease fitting on the left side backside the tire. Give this plumbing fixtures 10 shots of bearing grease. Inside this case are some big final drive reduction gears. The plumbing equipment is positioned such that the grease will be distributed as the machine runs.
While you're there inspect the screws along this instance. This is a rare instance of Gilson using canvass metal screws. While they commonly concur up fine if yours are loose or gone they are best replaced with #10 machine screws and lock nuts.
Now I want to remove your wheels. You have either click pins out at the ends of the axles of clevis pins mounted inboard backside the wheels. Remove whatever pins your motorcar has. So remove the wheel making certain yous don't accept any spacer washers off of the shaft. You may need to twist back and forth to wind the wheel off.
Have a look at the beam where the pin was passing through it. The hole should be slightly countersunk. If steel has been raised past the pivot rocking in the hole when shifting the countersink must be restored. This can be done with a one-half circular or large rat tail file. If this is allowed to go unchecked the raised axle metal can engage the cycle and make removal impossible.
If the automobile is a gear bulldoze the axle bearings have grease fitting. Give these a few shots until movement appears.
On the UniTrols the axle rides in sintered steel bushings. There is an oil fill up hole in the tiptop that should exist clear. Requite the bushing a few drops of SAE-30 oil. Cheque the bushings for cracks. If at that place excessive upward wear of the bushings the clearance betwixt the friction wheel and the axle will be reduced and this can cause premature friction bicycle failure. The OD of these bushings is ellipsoidal as is the hole they are press into, this prevents rotation of the bushing.
On gear drives the will be 2 or 3 drive bondage seen from the bottom. Glaze these with grease all over.
On UniTrol the bottom is covered, remove the cover. If the friction wheel shows signs of touching the axle it is due for replacement, come across above.
On UniTrols clean the round and hex shafts that the rubber wheel traverses on. WD-40 volition cut the gum nicely. So lightly oil these surfaces. Be sure to keep the bulldoze platter make clean.
In UniTrols remove any nesting material that may be found. Launder your easily after treatment such fabric.
Put a drop of SAE-xxx motor oil on all linkage pivots including in the handle associates.
On 3 speed gear drives there is a 2 sprocket cluster running on the cantankerous shaft nether the machine. It has a grease plumbing fixtures that should be greased until response is seen.
Change your engine oil co-ordinate to your manufacturers instructions. I encourage y'all to consider synthetic oil if there is any chance you volition use the machine when it is below 0 degrees F.

By now you should have a off-white idea what your machine is all about and what it's condition is. Some of the common repairs needed are covered on this page.

Freeing a stiff or seized shifter of a 3 or 4 speed UniTrol

Tip the machine up on its nose and remove the bottom encompass
You lot will encounter that the friction bike carrier rides on a hex and a round shaft. These demand to be clean and very lightly lubed.
Embrace the machined platter with a rag to keep it clean
Flush the hex and parallel round shafts and bearing journals with something like WD-twoscore to cutting the gunk and rust. Get it moving and repeat until information technology slides freely. Keep the safety friction bike clean.
Remove all cleaning fluids
Put a drop of oil on a fingertip and wipe the ii shafts to apply thin film of oil.
A solvent such as restriction cleaner can be used to clean the bulldoze platter and the rubber friction wheel if contaminated.
Put a drop of oil on each pivot signal in the handle linkage system.
Yous should now be able to shift with a dainty grip of thumb and forefinger.
If this does not become it to shift, brand sure the friction wheel is lifting clear of the platter when the shifter is in the speed traverse path. Unless the linkage has been tinkered with this is unlikely. If needed the clevis under the left side of the handle on 3 speed models is used to make the manual tip and can exist adjusted.
On 4 speed models the left grip is used to lift the wheel to allow shifting.

ADJUSTING a three SPEED UniTrol SHIFTER

Open the bottom
Loosen the two carriage bolts on the lap joint in the linkage.
Slide the cycle all the style to the left (total reverse) as viewed from the lesser with the machine tipped upwardly on it'southward nose.
Place the control lever over the opposite position.
Spread the linkage at the lap joint to remove linkage slop and hold the articulation fairly straight. The goal is to set the mechanism so that the friction wheel is as far from center as possible in contrary. this will give y'all the fastest possible reverse. The forward speeds volition fall into place.
Tighten the joint
Make sure you don't land in the hole equally y'all shift
Brand sure that the friction wheel is not in the centre hole of the platter when in first gear
Brand sure the bike lifts from the platter
If not adjust the clevis on the left side of the handle.
That's almost information technology.

iii SPEED UniTrol BELT Irresolute

NOTE: This does not apply to the ii piece UniTrol models normally exported to Canada. These machines unremarkably deport decal designations of Gilson 500, 800 and g for 5, viii and 10 HP models respectively. For these machines consult your documentation for the procedure.

Remove the top belt cover.

LOOSEN the 3/iv inch commodities on the engine that holds your belt guard, simply loosen it a enough to pivot the guard.

Look downwardly near the big impeller caster on the left side, use a 7/16 wrench to loosen the little chugalug retaining finger.

Look in the same place on the correct hand side. If you have a similar finger loosen it. Newer machines accept a brake mechanism, exit information technology alone.

Tip the motorcar up on it's nose, if the drift cutter is not at that place or skilful enough to support information technology then position wood blocks to support the top lip of the bucket.

Remove the bottom cover

Look at the base of your handle assembly on the left paw side, at that place should exist a pilus pin cotter.

Remove the pivot and release the linkage from information technology's pigsty.

You should at present exist able to accomplish into the machine and lift the friction cycle from the platter far enough to pass your belts through.

Mark your belts in some style so you lot won't go them confused, B for Blower & T for Traction for case.

By rolling the pulleys slowly you lot will be able to get them off and on the pulleys. You volition also move the idlers so they are behind the belts and so place them back on top in the stop. This part is mostly common sense and defies exact explanation!

This is a real good time to grease your idler rollers if they are the solid steel type held on by retaining rings, they should exist opened up and greased every year or 2. If you have the sheet metal idlers with sealed bearings held on past a nut then you're all set.

With the belts in place reset the belt guides for 1/16- i/viii inch clearance when the blower is engaged.

Reverse the rest of the procedure.

That's about it, the hair pin cotter is the central.

iii & iv SPEED UniTrol IMPELLER and IMPELLER Begetting Alter

Given the age of these machines and some of the typical operating conditions having the main bearing or impeller seized on the shaft is common. Occasionally I encounter a unit of measurement that just slides apart but these are the exception. In the end, this process often amounts to precision destruction. Practice patience and remember to exercise no harm.

The actual impeller removal for the five speed units is like though dealing with the drive railroad train is different.

Remove the auger shaft bushings on the sides of the bucket. On some models you will need to remove the grease fittings to get them through the side panels
Remove the belts. Run into Here
Tip the machine up on it'southward olfactory organ. If you lot take the original drift breaker it will deed like a kick stand up. Otherwise use a 4X4 wood cake or something similar to support the tiptop lip of the saucepan depending on your exact model. If gas flows from the cap yous will need to drain some gas.
Remove the bottom cover plate, click pins, wheels and any sparse shaft spacers. Make notes of any spacer placements. normally 2 sparse spacers will exist on each side.
Disconnect all of the linkages to the mechanisms. Unbolt the "boomerang" bell crank mounted to the inside of the large dimple on the back of the machine. It has a lock-nut and then y'all volition need to hold the nut with a wrench while turning the commodities with a socket on an extension.
Unhook the extension spring that is hooked into the back panel.
Remove the bolts securing the side plates that the axle bushings are in.
- Do not remove the hex caput canvass metallic screws for the inner gear cover on the left, this tin can stay together. Nevertheless as office of this job it's suggested that you disassemble this last drive gear case to make clean and re-grease. The grease has probably lost a lot of it's oil content and in that location may exist considerable sand in there.
Grab it all by the beam ends and pull the whole manual from the machine. The dimple plate will remain. All of the guts, beam, and side panels volition now come off as one. How thoroughly you clean and re-lube all of this is upwardly to you simply it'south a swell opportunity to go it moving like new or amend.
Remove the internal retaining-ring that secures the drive platter to the master shaft, slip it off and go along rail of the spacers above and below information technology.
Loosen the 2 blower pulley ready-screws and then apply a puller to remove the blower drive pulley. Pull from the middle hub, not the outside diameter.
Remove the black locking collar from the impeller shaft begetting. See this procedure for details.
At present remove the 2 nuts that secure the flange of that big middle bearing and remove the flange.
Remove the auger support bearings from the sides of the collector housing. Prop the auger leads with a woods block so that the begetting rises upwards away from its seat and remove the bearing from the shaft. See this procedure for details. Replacement bearings are plant here.
Lay the remains of the machine back downward and the auger/impeller assembly will slide right out!
Notation the distance between the tail end of the worm bulldoze case and the end of the impeller hub and write this downward for apply when reassembling..
Loosen the two foursquare headed set up screws on the impeller . Every bit time goes on these get harder and harder to remove. You may need to utilize a small disc grinder to strip the impeller downward to the core. Then slit the cadre lengthwise with the grinder to release it. Be careful to limit nicks to the shaft. In one case slit a common cold chisel driven into the slit may be needed to open the bore. Once again avert shaft contact. If yous have admission to a hydraulic press and tooling this will ofttimes piece of work. Be very careful to have a straight set-up. If things are askew the shaft may fold over nether pressure where it steps from 3/4" downward to v/eight". The impeller is on a key. Be sure to allow information technology passage when setting it up on a press. Sometimes you need to cutting some of the blades away to become press plates where you need them. Never strike the shaft end. Doing so will mushroom the end and may ruin the retaining ring groove.
Y'all have now turned the corner!
Dress the shaft with a file to remove any screw divots, keyway distortion or corrosion. The new impeller should smoothly slide onto the shaft.
Mount the impeller on the shaft using the key and tighten the set screws lightly.
Once reinstalled including auger bearings and main bearing you lot can loosen the set-screws and position the impeller such that the blades are cardinal to the discharge port. Tighten the impeller set-screws.
Reverse the rest of the procedure and you're done! Consulting other topics on this page such as friction cycle replacement and shifter adjustment will exist helpful.
New impellers are available hither.

I did this exact job for a friend some time ago. We started at 9:00 PM and were blowing again by midnight and we did some other tweaking forth the way too. This is a cracking time to replace the friction bicycle if it's cracked or worn.

3 and 4 SPEED UniTrol FRICTION WHEEL REPLACEMENT

Quickie Method

Tip the unit up on its nose. (Bleed some fuel or seal the cap if you have over 1/3 of a tank to prevent leaking.)
Remove the bottom cover plate.
Remove the right hand side bicycle, keep rail of whatever small spacers. If the bike won't come off see here.
Note: Sides are always described from the operating position.
Remove the 5 bolts that secure the right side plate this is the plate the axle bushing is in.
Loosen the aforementioned 5 bolts on the left side.
Pull the right paw end of the axle towards you to become the right hand side plate out from under the lip that retains it at the meridian.
Slide the RH side plate off of the axle.
At that place will be a cotter pin on the RH side of the friction bulldoze module, remove it and whatever spacer washers. Continue track of them.
At that place is a modest railroad vehicle bolt on the RH side of the friction drive module remove it. Note: If your machine is from the showtime years of this model (1969, 70) y'all will not accept this feature. You will need to remove both side plates and everything in between them and release the hex shaft from the begetting to slide it articulate to allow removal and replacement of the friction cycle.
There is i more thing that has to go right before you're home free, if you're then inclined say a prayer.
Wiggle the end plate that you removed the wagon bolt from. The bearing at the top end has to slide off of where you removed the cotter pin. Don't strength or distort information technology.
Did it come off? If yes accept a deep jiff.
If not here's where you have to be careful and clever with pullers and such. Odds are very good information technology will come correct off. See below for what I use.
Hold the hex shaft with a closely gear up large adjustable wrench.
Remove the iii bolts that mount the friction wheel.
Remove the friction wheel
Clean all sliding surfaces with WD-40 or some solvent that will cut gummy onetime oil.
Clean the platter/pulley with brake cleaner, denatured alcohol, lacquer thinner or anything else that will leave it admittedly clean. If it'south rusty sand it first. If it is work polished smooth sand with coarse emery cloth in an orbital pattern to promote friction. Platters that take work polished smooth can sideslip when a piddling snow blows in to wet the surface.
Reverse the procedure to put it back together
Lightly oil the sliding surfaces including the hex shaft, wiping them with oily fingers volition help forbid over oiling. I like to employ Mobil-1 5-30 oil for this. I recollect the constructed behaves meliorate in the common cold and over time.
Reclean the bulldoze platter every bit needed.

Preferred Thorough Process
This method provides a thorough cleaning and servicing of the manual. Information technology is likewise the procedure required to replace the reduction gear bushings.
- Tip the unit upwardly on its nose. (Drain some fuel or seal the cap if you take over 1/three of a tank to forestall leaking.)
- Remove the bottom encompass plate
- Remove both wheels and note the sides they come from, keep track of any minor spacers .If the wheel won't come up off see here.
- Note: Sides are always described from the operating position.
- Loosen the bolt that secures the bell crank at the base of operations of the left side handle bracket. Remove the cotter pin from the rod that emerges from the dorsum of the machine to free that rod.
- Remove the 2 pocket-sized wagon bolts securing the transport lapped shifter linkage.
- Apply a nine/16" open up stop wrench to appoint the nut on the inboard side of the big dimple. Use a ix/16" socket on a 6" extension to reach into the dimple and remove the bolt. Note the guild of the stand up-off, and large washer.
- Release the spring that is hooked into the top left corner of the back panel. A tool like an old long scewdriver with a V notch ground in the cease of the blade is a overnice tool especially to supervene upon this bound.
- Remove the v bolts that secure the right and left side plates.
- Tug on the axle to free the whole transmission assembly. Manipulate the rods to go them out of the chassis.
- This is a good fourth dimension to first taking digital pictures. The parts can be hard to visualize when not oriented in the car.
- Remove the correct side chassis console by sliding information technology from the beam.
- Remove the cotter in from the outer surface of the left side chassis panel.
- Slide the friction cycle module out of the left side reduction gear housing.
- Open the reduction housing by removing the sheet metal screws.
- The axle and inner reduction housing volition remain an assembly unless you bother to knock out the beam roll pin.
- Degrease and clean everything
- Audit/replace the flanged oilite bearings in the reduction gear.
- At present nosotros go after the actual friction wheel. At that place volition exist a cotter pin on the RH side of the friction drive module, remove it and any spacer washers
- There is a small carriage commodities on the RH side of the friction drive module remove it. NOTE: If your machine is from the starting time years of this model (1969, 70) you will not take this characteristic. You will need to remove both side plates and everything in between them and release the hex shaft from the bearing to slide information technology clear to allow removal and replacement of the friction wheel.
- There is 1 more than affair that has to go right earlier you're dwelling house free, if you're so inclined say a prayer.
- Wiggle the cease plate that you removed the wagon commodities from. The begetting at the meridian end has to slide off of where you removed the cotter pin. Don't strength or distort it.
- Did it come off? If yeah take a deep breath.
- If not here'due south where you have to be careful and clever with pullers and such. Odds are very practiced it will come up right off. Encounter beneath for what I apply.
- Agree the hex shaft with a closely set big adaptable wrench.
- Remove the 3 bolts that mount the friction wheel.
- Remove the friction wheel
- Clean all sliding surfaces with WD-40 or some solvent that will cutting sticky old oil.
- Bolt the new friction bicycle in place, supercede the stop cap, washers and cotter pin.
- Butter the reduction gear and axle gear teeth with cycle bearing grease.
- Place the inner reduction housing confronting the friction bulldoze module, mount the reduction gear cluster on the stub shaft mating its big gear with the friction drive module output gear. Slide the axle gear in to mate with the minor gear of the reduction cluster. Slide the left side chassis plate onto the beam and then onto the stub shaft. Install the cotter in in the stub shaft. Close the reduction housing with the canvas metal screws.
- Slide the beam begetting onto the axle.
- Orient the rods and spring for reinsertion in the machine.
- This is a good time to mop out the transmisison cavity. Degrease and wipe away chugalug and friction drive framents.
- Clean the platter/caster with restriction cleaner, denatured alcohol, lacquer thinner or annihilation else that volition leave information technology absolutely clean. If information technology's rusty sand it outset. If it is work polished polish sand with coarse emery cloth in an orbital pattern to promote friction. Platters that accept work polished smooth can skid when a footling snow blows in to wet the surface.
- Ease the transmisison associates dorsum into the machine. Be sure to go the side plates under the lips of the primary chassis. Push it full up and secure with the 10 bolts but to not tighten them yet.
- Reconnect the leap into the notch in the top left corner of the dorsum plate
- Remount the boomerang to the inboard surface of the dimple. Remember the stand-off and fender washer.
- Install the 2 modest railroad vehicle bolts securing the ship lapped shifter linkage. Aligning comes latter.
- Reassemble the bellcrank associates at the base of the left handle bracket.
- Lightly oil the sliding surfaces of the friction bulldoze module including the hex shaft, wiping them with oily fingers will help preclude over oiling. I similar to use Mobil-i 5-30 oil for this. I think the synthetic behaves better in the cold and over time.
- Reclean the drive platter as needed.
- Install the bottom cover and snug the bolts.
- Tighten the 10 bolts securing the chassis side plates.
- Remove the lesser comprehend.
- Adjust the shifter using this procedure.
- Replace the bottom cover.
- Replace the axle washers, wheels and klick pins.
- Work your fashion upwardly the linkages putting a drop of oil on each pivot point.
- Remove plastic from the gas cap if used.
- Examination run.
- The transmission should shift hands with the lever held between your pollex and forefinger. With decades of break-in, a good cleaning and fresh grease the bulldoze reduction should sound similar a fine sewing machine when you button the motorcar.

REPLACING THE ROPE IN A RECOIL STARTER

This is written based on the Briggs & Stratton L Head engines that are normally found on these vintage machines. The procedure is similar on most small engines.

You have to remove the recoil housing which means removing the heater box and removing 3 of the caput bolts. After that information technology's just 4 small bolts (7/16 wrench).
With the assembly on your demote you will demand a tool that plugs in where the starter clutch goes in the eye, a broom handle basis or sanded to the shape will do fine.
Get some expert quality braided nylon cord of the matching diameter and cook i end to a nice clean indicate.
Nail the assembly to your bench or get a helper to hold information technology.
Insert the tool into the pulley and wind the leap up then back off until the hole in the pulley lines upward with there the rope enters the recoil housing.
Thread the pointed finish into the housing and over to the hole in the pulley.
Fish the rope up through the pigsty with needle nose pliers.
Tie a good knot.
Pull the knot down to the caster.
Slowly permit the spring wind the tope into the pulley.
Slide the handle onto the rope.
Pull a piffling rope out of the housing and so there will be some tension when at rest.
Tie the rope around the handle pin.
Trim the rope.
Test information technology. It should pull dorsum in readily and take adequate length when out.
Reinstall on the engine.
Be conscientious where hither it meshes with some sheet metal parts, make sure it'due south together every bit you found it.
Evenly torque head bolts to 165 inch/pounds or 140 inch pounds if v HP or smaller.
That'due south all there is to it!

Adjusting your carburetor

This is written based on the Briggs & Stratton L Head engines with FloJet carburetors. These are bowl blazon carburetors with a visible adjusting needle at a 45-caste bending.

Well assuming that the ignition is skilful and the carburetor is free and articulate here is what I do...

Get it to run for most 5 minutes to warm upward.
Run information technology to total speed
Turn the loftier needle (the diagonal one) in to where the engine falters (note where you lot are)
Run the needle out until it again falters, note how far information technology was from the other extreme, motion to the midpoint.
Drop the engine to idle
Repeat with the low speed needle (not the idle stop screw), it's up in the heater box and barely reachable with finger tips.
When doing a cold restart you might need to make a slight correction on the high needle to sweeten the setting for a cold engine.

If you are starting with an engine that is hopelessly tinkered with here are some starting points. For the loftier-speed (diagonal) needle run information technology in (CW) and gently seat information technology closed. Now back it out i-1/2 turns. The low- speed needle is upward where your fingers can barely reach information technology in the heater box. This wants to be similarly seated and backed out 1 plough. In general the high speed volition make up one's mind how the engine runs at full speed. The low needle will effect how the engine responds and accelerates when you lot pull up on the throttle.

Replacing a Gear Drive Impeller or Principal Begetting

In full general the gear drive machines split up in 2 tight behind the impeller. This makes impeller / bearing service quite easy. The hardest part is dealing with the effects of aging that tend to make certain things not want to come apart. I always replace the main begetting if I'1000 in this deep.

Remove the belt cover
Remove the blower belt
Remove the 2 side acorn bolts below the chugalug cover
Remove the 2 tiptop acorn bolts and catch the drive terminate of the machine every bit it tries to fall away.
Next you lot remove the big pulley, loosen 2 set-screws and use a big gear puller to catch the middle hub.
At present remove the ii auger support bearings upwards front.
Utilise a file to remove whatever set-spiral divots the pulley left behind.
On the input shaft there will be a black eccentric locking collar with a ready-spiral, remove the collar. See this process for details.
Remove the ii nuts that secure the bearing flanges. remove the meridian flange.
Get a lath to put under the augers. You want to force the augers to the back of the bucket to lift the big bearing as loftier as possible.
Remove the bearing from the impeller shaft. Come across this procedure for details. Replacement bearings are found here.
Mark the augers as left and right. Remove the ii shear pins and auger assemblies.
Remove the 2 impeller set-screws. Get the associates into a hydraulic press and support the middle hub of the impeller. Press on the input shaft. The kickoff few movements may make a frightening snapping sound! Exist sure to have something soft to catch the worm drive. Soaking it in something like Kroil penetrating oil in advance tin't hurt.
Using a file dress the ii impeller prepare-screw divots
Now you can service or replace the impeller. If you work on the impeller effort to maintain the balance.
When reassembling make certain you get the auger leads back on the right sides.
Install the auger support bearings before the main centre bearing. The auger bearings volition set the shaft projection. Y'all should at present be able to introduce all of the bearing parts in order and opposite the rest of the process.

Replacing Belts in a 1, 2 or 3 speed Gear Drive

This procedure covers replacing belts in Early one or 2 speed Gear Drive and 3 speed Gear Bulldoze machines.

Exist sure that your gas tank is no more than than 1/2 total. If information technology is more than i/2 full get a lightweight plastic bag (like a Wal-Mart bag). Remove the gas cap, identify the handbag over the opening and screw the gas cap on. This volition effectively plug the fuel cap vent and foreclose dripping. Always be conscientious with gasoline and with the old handbag when done.
Pull the spark plug wire from the spark plug to disable the engine. You may need to gently twist the safety boot.
Remove the belt cover in front of the engine. This will be either two bolts or thumbscrews that may require a nearly closed adjustable wrench or pliers. Do not remove the screws, the bottom of the guard is slotted.
Ready the controls and then both idler rollers are pulled dorsum into the disengaged positions.
Around the engine pulley there will be a wire retainer that extends forth each side of the caster you should exist able to work effectually this or you tin loosen the commodities on the engine if demand be.
If your machine has a drift breaker bar in front and it is not bent yous may lift the handles and tip the machine up onto it's nose. If yous don't have a drift breaker or don't trust yours and so get a block of wood and identify information technology to grab the top lip of the bucket when yous tip the machine upwardly. Note: If you have an early gear drive with the straight sided saucepan your machine may want to gyre forrad on the augers while you tip it up. Lifting it in ane make clean motion usually counteracts this.
Await at the bottom of the machine to see if there are any belt servant rods in the fashion of removing / replacing the belts. These are usually just on early on models. If y'all have any loosen the bolts and back them away.
If yous await between your 2 lower pulleys you lot volition run across articulate passage for a belt.
Since the blower belt is at the end of the engine shaft you demand to move it first. You lot may have enough slack to but start it off the lower pulley and rotate the pulley to brand information technology climb free. Once off the lower pulley pass it up the centre. If it's not happening then get it started and carefully pull the recoil rope to pull it around. You need to get-go from the right side of the lower caster to make this work You lot will see what I mean when you do it.
Repeat the process to costless the traction belt
Install the new belts by reversing the process starting with the traction belt. on v, 6, 7 & 8 HP models the belts are identical.
Engage both belt idlers
If you lot moved whatsoever of the belt retaining fingers reset them and then at that place is 1/16 to i/8 inch of clearance when the belts are engaged
Rock the machine down and check any topside belt guides
Undo both chugalug idlers
Reconnect the spark plug wire. Be certain that the metal final is aligned to reconnect to the spark plug final
Remove the bag from the gas cap if applicable
Supercede the chugalug encompass
Start and test
Note I have intentionally omitted running with the belt cover removed for problem shooting. In some cases information technology will exist appropriate to discover the belts for correct tracking on the idler rollers.